In the late sixteen century, there existed a powerful belief amongst
European explorers that a great continent must exist in the Southern
Hemisphere in order to balance the huge land masses of the Northern.
Two Spanish expeditions had left Peru in a fruitless search, with
only the Solomon Islands reached.
A Portuguese lieutenant on this second expedition, Pedro Ferdinand
de Quiros, had saved the expedition when the
Pilot, Mendana, died at Santo Cruz, by successfully navigating the
return voyage to the Philippines. For the next ten years de Quiros
partitioned the Spanish crown to sponsor yet another expedition. In
1605 his wish was granted and he was ordered to find this great land
mass, colonise it and convert any native to Catholicism. (The then
Spanish king was Pope Clement VIII).
On December 21st de Quiros left Peru with three small ships and
140 adventurers, seamen, soldiers and monks. After a less than
harmonious voyage, he arrived once more in the Solomon's and learned
that if he travelled south, he would come across a great land called
'Mallicollo'.
On April 25th 1606 the lookout spied the tall peak of Mere Lava.
De Quiros stopped briefly at Gaua then pressed on southward. On May
3rd he sailed into Big Bay and because of its great size, believed
his quest was over. He called the land Australia del Espiritu
Santo.
With diplomacy typical of the Spanish in this era, he landed in
Big Bay, promptly shot those curious natives who showed themselves,
and declared the country theirs in the name of God and Spain. De
Quiros established a colony named New Jerusalem near the river
Jorden. Unfortunately his mental instability surfaced and declaring
himself King, promptly knighted the entire crew down to the last
cook.
Fever, increased native hostility and other depravations caused
the crew and colonists to revolt against the increasingly unstable de
Quiros. Thus, only 54 days later, de Quiros was forced to leave. His
unrealistic glowing reports of this fabulous new world had little
impact on the Spanish Court and his attempts to return failed. The
islands were left once more in peace for another one hundred and
sixty years.
In 1766 the Frenchman Louis Antoine de Bougainville also set forth
on a voyage of discovery in two ships. His explorations of the
islands were somewhat more thorough and he labeled Maewo, Pentecost,
Ambrym (although he could not tell if they were one continuous
island) and Malekula Islands, in addition to proving that Espiritu
Santo was in fact an island, not the fabled Southern Continent. In a
typical explorer's fit of ego, he name the strait dividing Malekula
and Santo after himself.
Bougainville's only landings were to collect timber and, to
counter the onboard scurvy, fresh fruit. On each occasion his crew
encountered general passive and sometimes active hostility from the
natives.
Bougainville also made the observation that the people of Aoba
(now called Ambae, or more popularly named by James A. Michener, Bali
Hai) seemed to be of two quite distinct types, one being smaller and
darker than the other. As this distinction no longer exists it is
extremely likely that the most recent Polynesian/Melanesian
immigration occurred no more than a few hundred years before, at
most.
Before Bougainville had arrived home, James Cook, the English
explorer, had set out on his first voyage of discovery. However it
was not until his second voyage in 1771 that he was to find
Vanuatu.
Like his predecessors, Cook sailed with two
ships. In November 1773, north of New Zealand the two ships became
separated by a violent storm. The second vessel "Adventurer" returned
to England in the summer of 1774. Cook spend some time searching for
"Adventurer", first sailing southeast then northwest. He was in the
Easter Islands in May 1774 then in Tonga in June. Leaving there on
the 1st July 1774 , at 3pm on the sixteen of that month he sighted
land. The following day he realized he was in sight of Australia del
Espiritu Santo.
Cook's sailing explorations of the islands were more extensive
than either of his precursors. As he sailed south he established that
Pentecost and Ambrym were separate islands, and that Ambrym had twin
active volcanoes. Further south, he thought Paama and Lopevi were one
island. He identified Epi sailed west and anchored in Port Sandwich
on Malekula, one of the finest anchorage's in the islands.
Over the following weeks cook sailed further south, to Efate,
Erromango and Tanna, meeting a mixed reception from the essentially
suspicious indigenous peoples. He landed several times to collect
timber and fresh water, trading cloth and in one case dogs, for food
and the right to collect water and fell a tree necessary to repair a
rudder. However he was universally denied entry inland to any of the
islands and thus prevented from climbing Yasur volcano on Tanna
Island. He finally left the group, having sailed north past the west
coast of Malekula and Santo.
Like Bougainville, Cook observed that distinctly different races
inhabited different parts of the islands. He also observed the
peculiarly flattened and elongated skull shapes of many northern
islanders but had no idea it was due to traditional head binding.
In 1786 La Perouse was sent to the South Seas by the French
government. He was last heard from in Botany Bay, Australia, then
disappeared without trace. Only recently has his fate been
discovered, for he was shipwrecked off the Santa Cruz Islands (the
southernmost islands of the Solomon's, just north of the Torres group
in Vanuatu).
Explorers sent to find La Perouse, d'Entrecastaux in 1791 and
Dumont d'Urville in 1825 both recorded sighting Vanuatu, though
neither landed.
Dillon, also in search of La Perouse's fate (though after forty
years one must wonder what they thought to discover) set out in 1826
and landed on Erromango Island, in the bay which now bears his name.
However by now the South Seas had become a reasonably well known
area, mostly as a consequence of the English settling Australia.
Unfortunately these relatively remote islands attracted the attention
of what has sadly, but accurately been described as the scum of the
white race. What horrors followed saw the reduction of an estimated 1
million people in Cook's era to less than 45,000 by W.W.II.